Despite a skyline dominated by skyscrapers, Osaka's commercial character blends with an imperial past and a rich culture that persist just below its ultra-modern surface.
Founded on commerce and heavily bombed during World War Two, Osaka still retains a large number of excellent historical buildings and culturally rich areas.
Osaka-jo Castle and Park
Outstanding among these is Osaka-jo, the castle at the heart of the city. Repeatedly destroyed over the centuries by feuding shoguns, fires and bombs, the present castle was rebuilt in 1931 and updated again in 1997. A stroll in the surrounding park, fruit tree gardens and concentric walls of the castle is free but the museum inside the central tower costs ¥600 ($6) to enter. Ancient meets popular culture at the castle every Sunday between midday and six pm when amateur bands perform in front of the Osaka-jo-koen station.
Osaka’s Imperial Palace and History Museums
The original settlement was called Naniwa and the name still exists as a ward. From humble beginnings as a commercial port, it served as a gateway to the outside world at a time when Japanese foreign policy was largely isolationist. For a short time in the seventh century, Naniwa, like nearby Kyoto and Nara, served as the country’s capital city and the remains of the Naniwa-Nagara-Toyozaki Palace near the castle testify to the city’s imperial past. This site can only truly be appreciated from the air. A viewing room on the tenth floor of the Osaka Museum of History is ideal and excellent displays in the four storeys below bring to life the city’s commercial, social and cultural past. While the Osaka Museum of History celebrates life in the city, The Osaka Human Rights Museum (sometimes called Liberty Osaka) south of Tenno-ji takes a more sober look at Japan’s recent history and some of its more taboo subjects.
Tenno-ji, a district south of the centre, is home to an evocative downtown area, a zoo, a beautiful park and the important Shitenno-ji Temple. The first state Buddhist temple in Japan, the large concrete compound of Shitenno-ji has a five-storey Pagoda, turtle ponds and hosts a lively market on certain days. Not far away on the horizon and in stark contrast to the temple is the Tsutenkaku tower rebuilt in 1950 after being damaged by bombing. Like a miniature Eiffel Tower it marks a small district of cheap shopping arcades, bars and restaurants.
There are many other pockets of culture around Osaka such as in Tsuruhashi and Uehommachi. Osaka is home to the largest population of Koreans in Japan as well as a growing number of other foreign nationals and a Korea-Town has long been established in Tsuruhashi. Between Uehommachi and Tenno-ji a fascinating area saturated by small temples and traditional houses exists and is generally ignored by tourists and their guidebooks.
A history of commercial wealth in Osaka allowed the arts to flourish for centuries and it is still true today. In Namba traditional puppetry can be seen at the National Bunraku Theatre and Kabuki, Edo period drama, plays at the Osaka Shochiku-za Theatre not far from Namba station. Every year in March Sumo arrives in Osaka and can be seen at Furitsu Taiku Kaikan stadium.